Poiret: The Original Modernist

Modernity created a number of key factors germane to the production of “fashion” culture today: a mobile urban society where individuals at leisure could observe one another, a fluid economy that supported upward economic and social mobility and the technological means for things to be reproduced on a large material and geographical scale (i.e. publishing, advertizing, the factory, home sewing machines and the advent of the highly democratized department store). Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was one the the first designers to capitalize on the “invention” of the mystique of the artist-designer utilizing trademark and branding of his name and logo, international exportation of his goods to America from Paris, and mass-production of “discount” designs to satisfy the department store market combined with a publicity arsenal that included: advertizing, fashion shows, theater and public interviews. Famous for his fêtes, his extravagance, his elitism tinged with a large dose of populism, Poiret designs before the first world war became synonymous with French Couture the world over. What is more, Poiret was one of the first designers to franchise into: perfumes, house wares and even a “disco”. Modernism, how did we ever live without thou?